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​Spring Blog

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STRAW for garden beds

3/19/2023

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Many People use fillers in raised beds to avoid having to fill the entire box with soil. Filler materials can be gravel, pottery shards, packing peanuts, or even plastic bottles. But don't use these, use straw!!
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3 Benefits to using Straw 
  • As straw rots, it releases nutrients which feed the plants growing in it.  
  •  Straw also adds space in the soil medium, making it easier for roots to stabilize and spread.  
  • When the garden bed is watered, the straw absorbs the water and creates a warm microclimate underneath. This helps the moist environment to last longer which feeds plant growth!
​Avoid toxic fillers and instead use straw on the bottom.  It fills the space with organic matter and creates "fluff" in the soil so the plant roots can easily grow.  
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Fill the beds 2/3 with straw. Then put 6-10 inches of compost-rich garden soil on the top.
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Filling raised beds all the way up is wasteful, and the plants don't need that much soil. Plus, it takes a LOT of water to saturate all that soil every 2 or 3 days, and that is expensive!  
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**CAUTION**  These are fabulous raised beds that were already installed when I planted them. NOTE: probably the best design for stable terracing. However, they were very difficult to plant in because they were 3/4 filled with gravel. Then, topped with that black landscape fabric, With 6" of soil on the top.
​NO where for plant roots to grow!! 
 For those using this method, know that you'll have to adapt the plants to the available (root) space.....not to mention greatly lessened water retention!!
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Pruning ferns & Dividing perennial plants

3/9/2023

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My Favorites!!

SHADE
The lovely Maidenhair Fern
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​Part-Sun
Autumn Fern, with coppery color on new growth.
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​Part-Sun
Soft-Shield Fern, unusual, showy fronds!
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I haven't though much about dividing ferns ​in the past, but this year I'm going to do it! They are big and beautiful, resilient and easy to care for.....And I want more of them!!!
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Deer Fern, compact growing habit, beautifully bright green when grown in Full Shade.
Divide ferns in the spring, just as the fiddleheads are emerging, or slightly before. Ferns can take a little sun, as long as they are kept moist.  
Grow in humus, well-draining soil. Add compost for fluff! 

Trim away the old branches before you divide. Loosen ferns with a shovel apx 6" away from the center. Pull a hunk away, severing the lateral root a ways out for replanting with the fern.  Pull the root sections away from the whole, if it's a large root ball.

Dig at hole 2-3 times wider than the plant root, but only just as deep. Replant in the new hole, making sure to re-bury any lateral root in an outward shallow trench. Cover with loose soil and mulch, leaving the root a little higher rather than too low into the ground. Water deeply. 

​They transplant better when they are smaller.

Pruning Ferns

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Use cardboard to surround the ferns in the winter, to keep the weeds down and so that you can find them easily in the spring.
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Trim the old dark green fronds away to allow for new growth.
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Trim carefully to avoid the emerging fiddleheads.
​Watch them unfurl into bright green fronds!

Divide these plants to fill in landscape gaps!!

Echinacea, Succulents, Autumn Joy, Iris, Shasta Daisy, Bee Balm, Hen & Chicks, Hosta, Grassy Plants, Rhubarb and more!!!
The best time to divide plants is in the early spring, just as they are emerging from roots or rhizomes, or when the snow is over and it's warm enough to work outside! 
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Blueberries - Revive & Increase Production

2/12/2023

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Blueberries in an Edible Landscape!

What a fun addition these are to any garden or yard!  ​Easy to grow and a handy snack!!
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You'll have great success with Blueberries if you follow these simple rules:
  • At least two different varieties will result in the largest harvest
  • Plant within 10 feet of each other - so the Bees can find both plants 
  • Wet feet, full Sun = the best growing conditions, where the ground will be perfectly acidic!
  • Prune EVERY year.
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 Fertilizing Also Helps.
     Spring Care:
  • Prune then Mulch.  Put fertilizer down first, then mulch on top. Wood chip mulch is okay for blueberries.
  • Always use an Organic fertilizer on fruit trees and shrubs; it also **improves flavor** BONUS!  Fertilize around March & June to wake the plants up and get them to start building wood for next year's production.
  • Use 2-3 inches of acidic food for blueberries, according to the directions. Then, mulch around the perimeter of the bush to help insulate the outer root system and to conserve water.
  • Water deeply to help the fertilizer seep into the root system.  FYI Organic granular fertilizers are not as water soluble so they are effective much longer into the season.  
  • ​Make sure to irrigate in the summer for at least the first few years. FYI a stressed plant will sacrifice fruit production in order to survive.
BEFORE

​AFTER
Pruning Tips:
  • Disinfect your tools after pruning each plant - I cannot stress this enough!!
  • Prune the oldest wood at the ground to open up the center. This allows for new growth from the root. ​​
  • Preserve a balance of nice long healthy shoots from last year.  As the canes get 3-5 years old, they produce less. 
  • Airflow is the most important in order to prevent disease.
  • ​On the upper part of the bush, prune out the smaller thin branches and small shoots, leaving the strongest branches.  
You can grow Blueberries in a pot! 
  • Smaller varieties grow excellent in a pot!! A proven winner is Jellybean dwarf with an approximate size of 2x2 feet (18x18x2ft pot).  ​
  • Make sure to use the right soil for potted blueberries.  Use **acidic potting soil**  (rhody-azalea-camelia) potting mix. 
Get Pruning Help



​​Fall Blueberry Color
Skagit Valley, WA

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Soil temperature for plantings

1/31/2023

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What and When can I plant?
As the winter storms lead to a few brighter days in January, I start seeing the sun again, if only briefly. But it's enough to make me start thinking of gardening. The temperature today is 25 degrees F outside. Winter flowers are blooming, bulbs are poking up, and my kale is still growing.  ​
Can I still plant garlic?
I would definitely plant garlic!!  In fact, I have garlic going all year long!  The "customary" timing is to plant around the beginning of October and harvest on the 4th of July. . . . . or there about.  The goal is to get the garlic roots established before the freeze comes, which gives the bulbs a jump start for spring growth when the weather warms.  But, you can adjust. I say plant it when you remember.  Just know that garlic takes about 9 months to maturity.   Easy to remember, haha
It's very easy to plant.   Root side down about 2-3 inches apart in a 4 inch deep trench in well draining soil.  If it's the hard-neck variety, you'll have long twirly garlic scapes before harvest time that you can cut and use in a stir fry.  Bonus!!!
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Is it time to start seedlings?
For years and years I joined the tribe of "early planters." Some of my seedlings occasionally did well enough to grow in the garden, but they struggled and didn't produce much.  I didn't know how "they" did it.  Then, when I started asking the plants what THEY wanted, I started doing better.
THIS is the importance of soil temperature:
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Cloche, cold frame or hoop house?
I really like this model for quick and effective early planting. You can help your seeds get a jump start by using a "row cover" or a "frost cloth" over hoop framing. This can warm the enclosed growing area and soil by up to 10 degrees F.  I have learned many variations of this by watching my father. Here's this year's style from recycled materials! 
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When the outside temperature is 28 degrees F, the temp 3-5 inches below ground is.....
We are successful gardeners when we can adapt to the ever-changing climate of the Pacific Northwest! 
Seeds germinate when the conditions are right - not when we are ready! When seeds or seedlings are planted too early they can do okay. But, if we get a cold snap or a weekend of torrential rain, the tiny plants become stressed. If this happens, it can take the small plant the ENTIRE SEASON just for it to catch up.  
When seeds are planted at the right temperature they have less stress, grow faster and produce more. 
Growing perennial flowers for pollinators and growing vegetables at the right temperature builds resiliency in my garden. 

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We are successful gardeners when we can adapt to
​the ever-changing climate of the Pacific Northwest! 
​
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Colorful Grasses FOR Winter INTEREST

1/13/2023

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Pampas Grass - The King of Grassy plants,! 
This showy display in the late fall gives color and animation to an otherwise dreary season.  The colorful plumes sway in the wind and later disappear to expose the large evergreen mound until spring arrives. 

The stately appearance of this fast-growing plant can get quickly out of hand in size, growing 10-15 feet tall and spreading 6 to 10 feet wide. This is perfect when used on
 a border or as a main landscape feature, but will become impossible to divide or move without a backhoe, so choose the location wisely.  
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Plant Sedges in wet areas - great for a Rain Garden!

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Everglow Sedge
Corkscrew Rush is great in a pot!!
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Red Hook Sedge
Drought-tolerant additions for a resilient landscape!
Accent with these perennial grasses to add texture and color year-round!
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Too many people trim their grassy plants during fall clean-up - potentially killing them.
Prune perennial grasses in the Spring!
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MICROCLIMATES

3/25/2022

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What is a Microclimate?
Microclimates come in many shapes and sizes.  A comfy chair hidden under a tall canopy of flowery shrubs, or a black plastic pot in which to grow strawberries!  You probably have many of them in your yard. So, why do you need them AND how do you find them?
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For a home landscape, microclimates can range from small, planter-sized areas to large buildings or long rows of tall trees. They can be a specifically designed environment or a naturally occurring buffer.  Microclimates can create shade, heat, cooling, wildlife nesting areas, protection, moisture, beauty, and other benefits. Some common features to look for in your yard are:
  • Topography. The shape of the land is a significant influence on microclimates. 
  • Soil. The composition of the soil affects microclimates primarily through how much water it retains or releases.
  • Water.
  • Vegetation.
  • Artificial Structures.
  • Directional orientation.  Determines which plants will thrive in which location.  South-facing slopes receive more light and heat from the sun, & North-facing slopes have less sunshine and more lush vegetation.​
​When microclimates are used on a property, they are uniquely specific to the surroundings, and limited only by the imagination of the designer! If you are not familiar with the use of microclimates, and want to reap the plethora of benefits, you'll definitely want to get some guidance from a professional!
 Have Fun!
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Seeds

3/16/2022

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Swap, Buy & Harvest

Seed Options 
Three main types of seeds are available to gardeners.
  • Open-pollinated 
  • Heirloom 
  • Hybrid -  plant breeding in a lab to combine 2  varieties, & GMO, which is altering seed DNA
For this post, I will discuss open-pollinated and heirloom seeds, as I feel these two types promote biodiverse and adaptable seed stock ongoing. This also enables private gardeners to save money, and collect their own seed to use and share with others.
Open-pollinated means that the plant flowers are fertilized by bees, moths, birds , bats, and even by the wind and rain. The seed harvested from these plants produce the same plant the next year. Some variances can occur if the plant is cross-pollinated by a different variety nearby, but this also adds to genetic diversity.  More diverse plant populations can adapt to local growing conditions and changes in climate year-to-year.
Heirloom seeds have a documented history of being passed down from generation to generation in a family, community or tribe, that have not been cross-pollinated. The plants grown may need a little extra care, but are said to produce more flavorful and more nutritious food. Heirloom tomatoes are especially popular because of their deep rich flavor, and the seeds can also be saved to plant more of the same for the next season! 
Why Organic?? 
The simple answer is that synthetic pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers, that are used on crops, including crops for seed, are unhealthy to consume. These chemicals cause illness, and are linked to many illnesses, cognitive degeneration, learning disabilities, memory loss and cancers.  When crops are treated with these toxins, the food we eat also contains them. 
So, I vote Organic.
The "Organic" designation requires more government oversight relating to certification and growing standards, transportation, and production facilities. The increase in the cost of this "cleaner" produce is a small price to pay for the commitment by smaller farms and farmers, who believe that food grown in it's natural form and habitat provide our bodies and our families the best possible nutrition. 
And I stand for these practices. 
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Biodiversity is the perfect balance.
​Crop health & production improve exponentially in a biodiverse environment. This is why monocrops grown from hybrid seeds require so much synthetic fertilizer. All the nutrients & biodiversity are gone. 
See this AMAZING example of the benefits of biodiversity on the barren landscape of the Dead Sea
www.youtube.com/watch?v=goBB4fVLRxc
Ecosystems are biodiverse communities that 
include all the different kinds of life you'll find in one area. These species interact and create an ever-expanding energy storage system that form an intricate web, to maintain balance and support all life.  

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dirt vs soil

3/6/2022

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If you're determined to grow your own food, here's what good soil can do for you.
Becoming a seasoned & intuitive gardener takes years of experience....True. 
​However, anyone can be a successful gardener, if you are committed to it. In the beginning, you can gain experience and success by keeping your vision small. TRUST ME ON THIS!! 
Start with a 3x3x3 method. Plant 3 hearty vegetables that you like, 3 perennial flowers, and 3 ground covers. This is everything you will need to start building a sustainable and resilient landscape.
  • When you select 3 hearty Vegetables that you like, then you will want to care for them, and they will respond to your attention by producing abundantly!
  • Flowers will bring in the pollinators that are necessary to grow everything - plus you'll get the bonus of continuing seasonal beauty!
  • Ground Covers are frequently overlooked by new gardeners. This necessary element helps to keep weeds down. They also serve as a "blanket" that keeps moisture IN the ground instead of it evaporating away.  It is amazing how much watering is reduced when implementation of groundcovers is perfected! 
What's your soil type?
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An experienced gardener can go crazy trying to get the *perfect* soil mix for their gardens. From making your own compost to buying the ideal mix, one can spend either an abundance of time, or a whole lot of money.  And if you're dedicated to growing food, you really need to have soil that works for vegetables.

This quick field test will help you determine your soil type. Knowing this is imperative, as it gives you information on your soil's water holding & draining capabilities. 
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   Do I make my own compost? YES
But if you're just beginning, skip it. What you're looking for is well draining, rich in nutrients, and fluffy. I suggest a triple mix - and here's how I make it.
1/3 - Your regular ground soil, whatever it is. It's best to screen it to remove all weeds.
1/3 - Organic potting soil. This usually contains a small amount of slow-release fertilizer. 
1/3 - Organic compost. I find the bagged version is cleaner than in bulk, but I'll let you decide. 
I mix this altogether in a wheelbarrow (in batches) and use it as I plant.  
If you decide to get bulk "garden soil" for your beds, BEWARE.
As you look at the choices, make sure to scoop some up to make sure it has the feel you want, plus the right combination of the 3 elements from above!         ​Happy Gardening!  

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Backyard berries!

3/3/2022

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Luscious Food from Sprawling Crawlers

Blackberries, Strawberries, & Raspberries........... Ahhhh, the taste of summer! 
These delicious berries are prolific in the Northwest, and the many varieties and cultivars make harvesting them a summer-long treat. It's almost hard to believe that these wild brambles and creeping vines can produce such luscious fruit. We look forward to this so much, and don't have to do much planning to get them. And why should we? They take little effort to grow and come back year after year!  The downside is their growing habit. They can quickly take over vast areas of bare ground, and can be somewhat difficult to tame.  
Here are 
a few ways I handle them, to increase harvest, and minimize effort.  ​

BLACKBERRIES

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If you have a hillside of blackberry brambles like me, you may benefit from a "containment method."  I start in March by laying down A LOT of cardboard around the area where I want to grow them.   
Then I remove the dead & too-long canes, remembering that the bushes will only fruit on OLD wood - last year's growth. So as I prune, I shape & wrap the canes around each other so the patch will remain a manageable size. 


​NOTE  Many flavorful cultivars & thornless varieties are now available that grow well in the Western WA weather! 

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TIP  You can shape the area as they grow, or just let them form into a mound where the berries will be abundant and easy to get to when they ripen in the fall. 
​ STRAWBERRIES
I like to grow strawberries in pots with the Tier Method.  The black pots serve as a heat-sink, absorbing heat during the day and releasing it slowly overnight, keeping the soil warmer longer. The berries ripen faster, PLUS it's a great way to minimize slugs & keep other predators at bay.  When the runners start to spread, I put them into one of the adjoining pots, thereby creating an above-ground network of strawberry plants, that produce wonderfully and consistently for the summer. The "mother" plants are viable for 3 years, so to keep your patch going you'll want to separate some of the "runners"  which will become the "mother" plants. 
​TIP  Pots get warm & dry, so keeping them watered will ensure the red berries keep coming!!​
RASPBERRIES
   RED  & GOLD
TIP Prune June-Bearing plants after harvest, as these will fruit on OLD wood next season. Everbearing plants fruit early on old wood, and again later on the newer spring growth. 
THIN your patch when plants are dormant, to remove the dead & crowded canes and to ensure a healthy & abundant harvest. 
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Sometimes the new shoots come from the crown when the cane looks dead above the ground.  You can dig up the new shoots if you want to transplant or move them.
I planted ONE CANE and this is how much it spread in ONE SEASON.  Make sure you have plenty of space!!
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Plant - Maintain - Harvest
Read my previous blog post HERE
 Get more berries per cane!!  ​Watch my YouTube video on how to do it HERE
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Winter inventory for your yard

2/23/2022

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do you consider yourself a gardener?

7/28/2021

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 Why do you garden? 

Every day I have a new answer to this question. That's because every time I go out to look at, and work in the garden, I see something I haven't seen before. A new wildlife visitor (or pest), a budding bush, or a fully opened flower with a sweet fragrance that makes me linger. 
I feel beauty, I feel peace, I feel connection.

What makes you linger? 
I invite you to comment, participate and question Everything, so we can learn and grow together!   I'd love to hear what you think!

With Gratitude, 
kathy
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Why water goes into the ground – and why it doesn’t

7/20/2021

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Ideally, water that falls from the sky would go into the ground and nourish the plant life. The perfect balance. However, this is increasingly rare, especially in cities. As populations grow, construction methods are such that ground clearing removes the porous layers that would absorb surface water. Piping and ditch systems are created that “collect and send” water to another location. In storms, these systems become over-taxed and cannot handle the volume and flow of water. Flooding can, and frequently does, occur. Rural areas are better, but compact ground, hilly terrain, clay layers and subsurface hardpan keep water from infiltrating into that ground too, the result being mucky muck in the winter and hard-as-a-rock clay in the summer. Neither allow water to infiltrate. To get the water into the ground is to make the ground more absorbable. A very popular, inexpensive and relatively easy way to do this is with recycled cardboard. Cardboard works because it prevents photosynthesis so weeds don’t grow, it helps absorb & retain moisture, and the cardboard decomposes and adds ‘fluff’ to the hard ground, making space for water to ‘go in.’  I have used this method for more than a decade, in muck and clay, with great success. Here’s a really good example of how to do it. 

This Sheet Mulching example is courtesy of the Snohomish Conservation District
Cut grass & weeds.
Then, cover with cardboard, which will decompose over time.
Mulch. Then plant shrubs on the slope to absorb & retain water.
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DEHYDRATION & RE-HYDRATION

6/25/2021

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A beautiful summer day in the Pacific Northwest!
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But I was sick, and I had no idea it was dehydration, or what that even was.

I was 30 years old, and it was late July. I had been gardening and running around planning for a large family picnic. I had two very active little kids that liked to play outside in the dirt
(haha - go figure!!) 
It was hot outside, and I had been feeling a little dizzy for the last few days. Whenever I ate I felt sick, and I had stomach cramps that wouldn't go away. I felt nauseous and hungry, but all I could do was lay around and try to sleep. My husband looked at me and said he was going to take me to the hospital.  SHOCK!  What? Why? I was just tired, overworked and stressed out, I thought. 
As a last resort I grabbed a medical book and started looking up my symptoms. I found this formula and wanted to try it before going to the hospital. My husband said I had one hour.
I made this recipe and, since I was desperate, I drank 1/2 cup every half hour. I was in disbelief that after an hour I felt much better. In three hours I felt good, and after another recipe, I ended up eating later that evening and didn't have to go to the hospital. I though it was strange - but I found out it was dehydration. Don't let it get this far - it's dangerous. The stomach cramps is a clue for me every time. The drink doesn't taste very good, but if you drink it hot, it's better.
I have used this recipe for years and years because it works!! AND, it won't hurt you if you're not dehydrated!  
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the broccoli experiment

6/1/2021

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Are you washing your food? 

I used to eat leafy greens right out of the garden. Carrots too, after I washed them off with the hose. But in the last few years, since I have been working with, and in, a lot more gardens, I've started looking at the plants a lot more closely - as I teach others to do. After all, observation is the first thing to do when working with any landscape. 

When labels say "Organic" I believe there is an assumption that the produce is clean because, after all, it's grown without chemicals, right?  The arguments here can vary greatly, but the bottom line is that we all want the fruit and vegetables we eat to be free of bugs, dirt, chemicals and bacteria, period.  ​
This Fruit & Vegetable Rinse, made from corn & coconut, is hands-down the best food cleaner I have ever used. It's edible, so you don't have to wash it off, and it's safe for kids & pets. It extends the shelf-life of your produce, and kills 'bugs' inside your body; I used it when I got food poisoning and was better in 15 minutes! It kills aphids on plants, and fleas on pets too. Read about it for yourself.   Fruit & Vegetable Rinse

​Whatever you do, DO SOMETHING to clean your food, counters, car and house. 
​Do it for Health, and for Peace of mind <3​
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Heat-Sink Rock Wall is GREAT for Succulents!

5/12/2021

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Succulents are the easiest, most resilient, prolific and beautiful plants for Pacific Northwest Gardens.  If you have them, you know this!!  These low-lying plants grow wonderfully along garden pathways or rock walls, needing little attention. The intermittent summer rain squalls are enough for them! They present with bright flower spikes in early summer and can even change color with late summer heat. *Bonus*
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Succulents DO NOT like to be separated, or planted as individuals. They like to be clumped together! This is how they propagate the best. Most prolific growing is in the early spring, where you will see explosions of new "chicks," while at the same time seeing a bit of the "mother" plant dying off. 
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ferns are fabulous!

5/10/2021

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I really love to use ferns in the landscape! They're versatile, abundant, inexpensive, and quite beautiful with their spikes of bright green, grayish-purple and orange. They can grow BIG or small, as with all plants, depending on how much they like their environment!  These are a few of my favs! And here's a few pruning tips! ​
HEALTHY PATCH! Polystichum munitum(Western Sword Fern)
1.  Healthy patch of our native Sword Fern. It's clearly 'picture perfect' and all the dead fronds have been clipped away. 
2.  Here's how mine look in the spring! 
3. First, I look deep inside to the middle of the plant to see if the new fiddleheads are emerging, and I'm careful not to cut them off when I prune. 
4.  Then, I pull back all the OLD fronds even if they are still a little green AND I cut them off all the way to the center. Yes, all of them!
5. This allows light for all the emerging fiddleheads to unfurl! 
6.  It is such a lovely sight to see the tiny little pruned fern transform into a bright green lush plant in the early spring!
DO Experiment with different ferns in your landscape! Some are more sun-tolerant than others, but a good filler plant nonetheless!!
**As always, if you want guidance, Please contact me** ​
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A Rain Garden is for Stormwater

5/7/2021

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By building a healthy Rain Garden using attractive native plants, property owners can reduce the amount of pollution that would otherwise enter nearby water bodies. Rain Gardens also prevent erosion, remove standing water, and create habitat for wildlife such as butterflies and birds.
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DIY - Here is the link to the Western Washington Rain Garden Handbook if you want to build your own. 
             RAIN GARDEN HANDBOOK​
PLEASE be aware that there isn't much room for flexibility on the measurements or installation calculations, so if you want clarification or assistance, I'm here to help!  
​contact me here
GET Help!  Jump over to my services page to see a Rain Garden I installed a few years ago. Look how great it's doing!!! The homeowners really love the beauty that has overtaken their yard! Their neighbors love it too!!  If you want an estimate on an installation, or help with maintenance, contact me here
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amphibian monitoring with the skagit land trust

4/14/2021

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It's Spring!!
How do I know? The sound of frogs!
For several years I have worked with the Skagit Land Trust in Skagit County Washington, doing surveys for frog eggs in the early spring. We monitor the same wetlands every year to see the changes in the native and invasive species, both plant and animal. This has greatly increased my awareness of our Northwest environment, and has helped me in my work and passion of helping to create the places where we ALL love to live!  If you want to be part of the solution, Contact Me to see how you can create your own beautiful habitat where you LOVE TO LIVE! ​

 Frog eggs and how to ID them ~ quick overview

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Raspberries  **Red & Gold**

3/25/2021

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This post is all about Raspberries. So, if you got some from me, you want to grow them, or if you’re growing them and they seem unproductive or “out of hand,” this information could be for you. Otherwise, probably not.
 
​These are Caroline Everbearing Red Raspberries. They produce in mid-summer, then again in the early fall and continue at least until it freezes, sometimes, as late as November. ​These plants produce berries that have a wildly robust and slightly tangy flavor. They adapt to varied soil conditions and are resistant to pests and rust.
 
The first year the canes are small, and may produce a few berries in the late part of the season. The 2nd year canes produce in mid-summer and then again abundantly in the fall. Do NOT prune the 1st year canes, or they will only produce once the following year. The 3rd year canes are dying or dead and will not usually produce. However, I never snip off the dead canes until the following spring when the plants start leafing out, just to be sure.  I neither prune nor trellis, but these are options depending on how much time you have!
 
New shoots come up from the expansive roots of the original plant. This is where PLANNING IS NECESSARY. If you grow raspberries along a fence line, be prepared for them to creep into your neighbor’s yard, which they may not want. I plant mine along a garage or some other building, where they can get sun AND shade, as they will grow better with both. Water if the weather is dry, or if they are too sheltered from the rain.  Thin every couple of years to keep the foliage low and the fruiting high!! I don’t use any kind of fertilizer, but a nice compost or mulch would be acceptable. Chemical fertilizer is not necessary or acceptable – in my opinion.
 
Locally we also grow yellow raspberries. The cane variety seems to grow much, much slower than the reds, but the fruit is divine! I will be selling these next year!!  There is also an evergreen ground cover raspberry bramble that is wonderfully producing, but DO be careful where you plant it if you want to eat those berries!
 
Watch my planting process in this YouTube video:
https://youtu.be/xAcZiB3cdkI
 
As always, call or message me if you have questions, I’m happy to help!
 
Happy Spring & I’ll talk to you soon!!
 kathy

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Skinny spaces are A-OKAY for Gardens!!

3/22/2021

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I thought I'd let you in on this hidden space I found to grow a garden!! It's basically the required setback between two buildings in a commercial district. I spotted it one day while on my way to visit a friend at work, and thought it would be a great area to demonstrate a "microclimate."  So, with permission, here's a picture-story of what we're doing.....
NEVER UNDER ESTIMATE THE POWER OF A VISION!
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This microclimate works because the buildings are tall and create shelter from extreme heat, cold and wind. One of the buildings is metal, which is a heat-sink that radiates heat during the day and on into the night. An Eagle Scout project provided the raised beds and the installation, in perfect alignment with the aesthetic. We know we're on the right track here when even the smallest inhabitants are finding a cozy and inviting home! 
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Greenhouse overload!

1/1/2021

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In case you didn't think watermelon grew here.....  And, YES, we got 6 nice apx 10" dia ones!!
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Micro-climates

1/1/2021

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A microclimate is an area of localized environmental conditions with regards to sun, temperature, wind, water, and soil. The area can be naturally occurring or one that you create. They can be simple or complex, a large farmland or a small area of a planting bed. Whatever you have, it can be developed into a microclimate that suits you. A key factor in creating a microclimate is observation, and combining elements from your unique location. These may include trees for shade, water runoff from a sidewalk or driveway, reflected heat from a black water cistern or a metal building, or even a nearby pond. Look at the following examples to give you ideas on how or where you can create one of your own! ​

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juvenile chorus frogs

1/1/2021

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These tadpoles were rescued from a swampy area on my property. The weather was warming and they would have been stranded as their pond dried up. I put them in a metal tub with some plant debris and a couple of big rocks. I shielded them from the sun, screened the tub and fed them garden greens as they grew. It took about 2 months for them to grow legs & hop up on the rocks. They eventually hopped out of the tub and into the surrounding environment - their home!! 
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